Saturday, March 1, 2014

Four Brothers Sports Tavern Review

Four Brothers Sports Tavern, Athens, GA
Four Brothers Sports Tavern is now open on Mitchell Bridge Road in Athens. It’s a welcome addition to the dining options on the westside of town and a step above the usual sports bar fare. Four Brothers is spacious and open with two levels and a terrace that is awaiting warmer weather. The lower level has a bar and bar tables; a curved stairway leads to the upper level, which has tables and large, curved booths. Several TVs are scattered around. The decor feels casual and modern at the same time, appropriate for the unusual green and blue building where it’s located.

We arrived on the night that Four Brothers received their beer and wine license, expecting there could be some opening week hiccups. There were very few. The beer options were limited to what they could order and receive that day, but we understand the list will grow. A couple of Jekyll Brewing beers were on tap. Hop Dang Diggity has a wonderful hop aroma - I would guess it’s dry hopped - and is a nicely balanced IPA. The Red Brick beers were not yet tapped; Fat Tire was available.

Our view of the food is taken from a vegetarian, primarily vegan, perspective. There were several options, and given that veggie choices are not usually a sports bar’s first priority, we expect the rest of the menu is quite tasty. Hot Boiled Peanut Hummus served with pita chips is a creative way to fuse middle eastern and southern favorites. There is a definite hot boiled peanut flavor, but it is not overpowering. My dining companion has a strong dislike for boiled peanuts, but said “not bad” after the first bite and “good” a short time later.

Bean’s Bean Burger was topped with generic lettuce and tomato, but the black bean patty itself was delicious. Quinoa could be tasted and there was some lingering spicy heat. Fries are standard, but we upgraded to Onion Rings, which were good, but nothing exceptional. We also added a side of Sweet Potato Tots. They had lots of sweet potato flavor and none of the grease often associated with their cousins from Idaho.

upstairs at Four Brothers Sports Tavern
There are a few additional veggie options and a range of appetizers, sandwiches, burgers and more that cover a typical range of bar food, but with a twist or two in the descriptions that hint at extra flavor.

The servers were cheerful, and one of the brothers was making the rounds to check in with diners. Bar service was a little slow, but that is not unexpected for first week of service. We understand there may be live music in the near future and outdoor bands in the summer. There are a number of sandwich or burger and a beer options in Athens, but based on our first experience, Four Brothers Sports Tavern belongs near the top of the list.

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Review of Ruan Thai Cuisine, Savannah, Georgia - Vegan Dining in Savannah

Vegan and vegetarian restaurants in Savannah, Georgia, are somewhat scarce for a city of its size. This is particularly true in the historic downtown area, where dining options are centered around seafood, Southern and French with a few of the usual tourist traps and chain restaurants thrown in the mix. Fortunately, a little bit of effort in searching will produce some rewarding results.

Thai restaurants are usually a reliable standby for vegetarians and vegans. During a recent visit, Ruan Thai Cuisine was selected for that reason, but far exceeded expectations. Located at 17 W. Broughton, Ruan Thai Cuisine is a short walk from most downtown attractions, inns and hotels. The decor is modern, warm and artsy; the service was attentive and friendly.

Cashew Nut Stir Fry
We started our meal with an order of spring rolls. A plate arrived with four rolls cut diagonally in an array around the plate. They were hot (temperature-wise) and delicious, crispy on the outside with soft vegetables on the inside.

As is typical with Thai restaurants, most entrees offer several protein options: chicken, pork, beef, shrimp or tofu. We selected a Cashew Nut Stir Fry and Garden Noodle. The latter had rice noodles, vegetables, tofu and peanut sauce. When the dishes arrived, the care taken in preparation and presentation became apparent. Both the tofu and vegetables were cooked just right. Everything was very flavorful and seasoned appropriately. We had opted for medium hot, spice-wise, which was about right. There was also a condiment caddy with chili sauce to add if additional heat was desired.

Desserts looked tempting, and there were vegan options, but we were too full to try any. Ruan Thai Cuisine has a full bar, a fairly good wine selection and the usual assortment of Asian beers. It is highly recommended for vegans and vegetarians visiting Savannah.

Friday, January 10, 2014

So Long to West Side Transmetropolitan

Word is out that Transmetropolitan on the west side of Athens will be closing this weekend. It seems like only a short while ago that both Transmet and Hendershot's - its next door neighbor for several years - were both doing well. Now, Hendershot's has moved to greener pastures, Transmet is closing and One Coffee never really got off the ground in the Hendershot's space.

It would be easy to blame the lack of parking at the Oglethorpe Avenue location. Still, Sr. Sol, about a block away, has limited parking while continuing to thrive. My last experience at Transmetropolitan on Oglethorpe was not a good one. A simple order got lost in the kitchen and took about 45 minutes to arrive. Our waiter ended up comping the food. It's only one story, but if there are many others like it, then a reason for closing becomes apparent.

There is potential good news for Westsiders. There are plans for a new restaurant in the perennially challenging location in The Arbor building on Mitchell Bridge Road that formerly housed Los Coyotes and the Iron Grill. Four Brothers is slated to be a sports bar with an emphasis on local food sources. If rumors of a dozen or more beers on tap and boiled peanut hummus are true, I'll be among the first in line for a late February opening.

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Mendocino Seasonal Oatmeal Stout Review

Mendocino Brewing Company has been on the craft beer scene for a long time. They have a stable of ales with bird themed names - such as Red Tail Ale and White Hawk IPA - that are good quality, affordable beers, though none are especially bold or adventurous. Their new seasonal release for 2013 is simply titled "Oatmeal Stout." (Fans of feathered animals will be glad to know that even though no birds are used in the name, a bevy of birds adorn the label and six-pack carton.)

The Oatmeal Stout is a worthy addition to the Mendocino lineup. Heavy on the oatmeal, this is a thick and rich brew. The other flavors, mostly chocolate and coffee, are well balanced. There is a hop presence, neither under nor overwhelming. Every bottle we poured had a tan 1/4 - 1/2 inch head. If you are tiring of all the spiced beer seasonal offerings, this dry stout is recommended as a pleasant change of pace.

ABV 6.0%


Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Southern Tier 2XMAS Seasonal Beer Review

An onslaught of seasonal brews is upon us. Just a few short years ago, it seemed that only a handful of craft breweries came up with special seasonal releases for the winter holiday season. Now, it seems like every brewery does. Finding the diamonds in the rough can be a tough challenge. Southern Tier Brewery's seasonal ale is 2XMAS. The label notes that it is brewed with figs, orange peel, spices, two hop varieties and four different malts. It's a nice balance between all of those; the spices -cardamom, cinnamon and clove - are at the forefront, but hops and the other flavors have a strong presence. Highly recommended as a good sipping ale for cool winter evenings.

ABV 8.0%


Sunday, December 1, 2013

Review of Tedeschi Trucks Band: Live - Everybody's Talkin'


The Tedeschi Trucks Band is a musical review along the lines of circa 1970 touring bands such as Joe Cocker Mad Dogs & Englishmen and Delaney & Bonnie & Friends. The sound and attitude of the band draws heavily from that era. They pay tribute to the past without simply repeating it, unlike several current revivals of 1960s bands. Tedeschi Trucks Band (TTB) is an eleven piece group with a horn section, two backing vocalists, and twin drummers. It is led by Susan Tedeschi, who has the most soulful voice found in a white woman since Bonnie Raitt, and her husband Derek Trucks. Trucks has been unequaled on slide guitar since he started playing with the Allman Brothers Band in 1999, if not before that, building on the foundation laid down by Duane Allman in that band's beginnings.

TTB is a melting pot of blues, R&B, soul, jazz, blues, and rock, much like those 70s bands mentioned above. It was a time when musical boundaries were crossed much more freely, and in many cases, dissolved altogether.

Everybody's Talkin' was recorded during the tour that followed the release of Revelator, TTB's debut release from June 2011. It features a mix of songs from that record, several covers of 1960s and 70s tunes and at least one previously unreleased song. Most tracks are in the ten to twelve minute range, with long solos that build slowly from quiet beginnings to full band frenzy. Trucks and his distinctive guitar style, where he balances restraint against a tone that usually sounds about one decibel shy of rocket launch, are featured in many solos, but almost everyone in the band gets their turn front and center.

A riff-based version of “Everybody's Talkin'”, the classic Fred Neil song made most popular by Harry Nilsson, opens the record. Tedeschi plays with the melody and as the groove heats up, Truck begins to fill in with his slide guitar. It's nice to hear a reworking of this song, but some of the other covers are more rewarding.

“Uptight” is every bit as funky as the original version by Stevie Wonder. The first solo break features Saunders Sermons on trombone with Oteil Burbridge laying down mile-a-minute bass support. Oteil gets most of the second break to himself, with a long bass and vocalizing buildup before he hands off to Tyler Greenwell and J.J. Johnson for a drum/percussion duet.

“Darlin Be Home Soon” was a Lovin' Spoonful song, also covered by Joe Cocker on his second album. It's perhaps the most melodic song on this record, with a soft trumpet solo and a lovely extended solo from Derek for the full second half of the track.

“That Did It” is a classic-sounding blues song with a tasteful and gritty guitar solo from Tedeschi. “Learn How to Love” is also in the blues mold and has Trucks and Tedeschi trading riffs during an extended guitar breakdown.

Several songs are from last year's Revelator album, including “Midnight in Harlem,” “Learn How to Love,” “Bound For Glory,” and “Love Has Something Else to Say.” These songs have not been significantly reworked, but as might be expected, have extended solos as well as new intros and outros, typically featuring Derek. He displays his Indian raga chops along with a nod to Duane Allman's “Little Martha” as a lead-in to “Midnight in Harlem.”

The album closes with “Wade in the Water,” Staples Singers style, soulful and joyous, with restrained slide guitar, muted horns, and a hammond organ swelling just below the surface. The vocalists trade lines and a fat bass sound holds down the bottom of the mix. It's a musical stew where every ingredient has a chance to shine and the combination of flavors has something for everyone.

Note: this review was originally published at my HubPages site in May, 2012, but has been relocated.


TRACK LISTING:

Disc 1

1. Everybody’s Talkin’
2. Midnight in Harlem (Swamp Raga Intro with Little Martha)
3. Learn How to Love
4. Bound for Glory
5. Rollin’ and Tumblin’
6. Nobody’s Free
7. Darlin’ Be Home Soon

Disc 2

1. That Did It
2. Uptight
3. Love Has Something Else to Say (With Kissing My Love)
4. Wade in the Water

Thursday, September 5, 2013

Review of Echo, New Vegan Restaurant in Athens, Georgia

Athens has been both ahead of its time and behind the times with vegan restaurants. In the mid 1990s, Guaranteed became Athens first vegan restaurant. Located on Broad Street, it lasted a couple of years, but there were not enough local vegans to support it, and vegan dining seemed liked a foreign concept to many diners. Now with everyone from Russell Brand to Bill Clinton promoting veganism, Athens has been overdue for a good vegan dining option.

Earlier this year, Broad Street Coffee opened in a tiny location that had formerly housed a BBQ hut. They were an instant success, yet stuck in an undersized facility that could seat only a dozen or so at a time. With the closing of Farm 255, an opportunity presented itself. Owners Juan and Vanessa Molina moved Broad Street Coffee to Farm 255’s former location on West Washington Street. The new restaurant, known as Echo, opened just a couple of days ago.

It has been a soft opening with little advertising. This is probably good, as the transition happened quickly. It will take time to adjust to a larger kitchen, dining room and more ambitious menu. We were there on the second night of operation along with several other diners. The menu features four or five appetizers, the same number of salads, and eight or so entrees. My dining partner had the crabcakes appetizer and a cup of sweet potato ginger soup. It was enough for dinner. The crabcakes are quinoa based - not actual crab, of course - with red pepper, red onion and celery. The two cakes were tasty and, served with a creamy dill sauce, very filling. The sweet potato ginger soup was thick, fragrant and excellent, overall.

The entree selection is not ambitious, but it does contain enough variety to satisfy most folks. Though tempted by a burrito, I had the chickpea and sweet potato burger. It was one of three burger options; they all come with slaw and mac and “cheese.” The burger had east Indian spices and was very flavorful. It was a little overwhelmed by the bread and could have used a smaller bun or been just slightly larger.

To my tastebuds, Daily Groceries sets the gold standard for vegan slaw. Echo’s slaw is headed in that direction, but has fewer ingredients. The pasta in the mac and cheese was overcooked. It was very “cheesy” but needed a couple of dashes of tabasco.

Despite a couple of minor miscues - to be expected with a brand new restaurant - service was friendly and efficient. We were very satisfied with our meal and felt it was reasonably priced. The owner stopped us on the way out and asked for feedback - always a good sign for a new operation.

For vegans and non-vegans, Echo is a welcome addition to the Athens dining scene. Its food, location, ambience and prices should make it highly competitive. Echo has several draft and bottled beers, a good wine list and a full bar.